You, inside the barrel, like you always said

I have stood next to a lot of boards in a lot of photos. Standing next to one is not surfing. This takes the beach photo — same wetsuit, same board, same you — and puts you IN the wave: crouched inside the barrel, fingers trailing the face, light coming through the lip. Your face, your build, nobody's abs but your own. The kept detail is the point: it's clearly your board. Tweak: 'make the wave two feet bigger' — apply every time someone doubts the story.